When the restaurant first announced a strict 200-kilometer sourcing radius, regulars worried the menu would shrink to root vegetables and little else. Three years on, the kitchen says the constraint has sharpened rather than limited its cooking.
The shift forced closer relationships with a small group of growers and foragers, who now flag unexpected surpluses or early harvests directly to the kitchen — often reshaping a dish the same week.
"We stopped designing the menu and started listening to the season. It's a completely different way to cook." — Executive chef, tasting-menu restaurant
Not every dish has survived the transition — a handful of signature courses were quietly retired when their key ingredient wasn't available locally — but the chef says that discipline has become the restaurant's clearest point of difference.